Wine is food - especially Chianti

"Wine is food" is one of the Paul Marcus Wines mantras. By that we mean, in part, that wine is inextricably linked with eating and the pleasures of the table. Perhaps no wine exemplifies that truth more than Chianti. By itself, stripped of the companionship of food, most Chianti is not a memorable wine. It's not unpleasant, but it seems to sit there in the glass, aloof and reserved. In short, Chianti is not a great aperitivo.

But bring on the food, and that aloof wallflower springs to life. Tonight's case in point: San Vincenti Chianti Classico 2001 ($21). I drank half a glass before dinner. Not bad - but why bother when there are so many completely satisfying aperitivo wines to enjoy? (Unfortunately, I didn't have any of 'em open this evening.)

Then Cheryl's parsley-and-basil-pesto pizza loaded with heirloom tomato slices came out of the oven. Excellent pizza. Excellent wine. Great combination. Both the food and the wine taste better in each other's presence. This is as it should be.

Such experiences also reveal the futility of using analytical, antiseptic, point-driven wine reviews to select wines that work at the table. Instead: eat, drink, and be merry. Wine is food.